Ethan on his boat (and no, his hair doesn't always look that good)
The French have an expression, "joie de vivre," and it describes someone who's just really amped on life. Unfortunately, they don't have an expression for "joie de fish", because that would be Ethan Wood.
Every fish monger needs a sidekick. Atticus is Ethan's.
He grew up outside Boston, living down the road from the Legals (of seafood fame). He worked for them, learning the ropes of the New England seafood trade from masters, and his enthusiasm shows. He talks about fish like you would expect a guy named Zeke to talk about his motorcycle: gesturing wildly, he taps you on the arm when he gets to the important parts of his story about cod, and he scrunches his face up like he's eaten something rotten when he's talking about how he saw seafood treated by wholesalers and other food service companies through his career.
If he thought he could make it work, he'd be more than glad to be a one-stop shop: take the order from a chef, jump in his boat, catch the fish, throw it on ice, drive to the restaurant and throw on the prep table. In fact, last week he was only half-joking when he joked about doing just that. Instead, he does the next best thing: He gets the best fish straight from the boats and drives them to Vermont and New Hampshire.
Ethan's business starts with a good relationship with the fishermen. Many people don't know this, but the food service companies and wholesalers buy the fish from the fishermen on terms, and then pay them after they sell it. That means that many fishermen don't get paid until a month after they sell their fish. Ethan knows that this is a hardship for them, so he buys the fish from them. With actual money. On the spot. Who do you think gets the better fish? Who do you think gets first pick?
When he started, Ethan chose Vermont's Mad River Valley as his primary market for 2 reasons, and you'll never get him to admit which one was the bigger motivator: an abundance of nice restaurants staffed by chefs who appreciate high-quality merchandise (especially when it doesn't cost more than the competition), and an abundance of skiing. He's since expanded into more of Vermont and part of New Hampshire, but he still finds time to ski. Those who've known Ethan for a while might ask why the new truck doesn't have a ski rack on it like the old van did. Don't worry, he still brings his skis with him... the rack's on the inside of the new truck.